Nature Walk Diary, 1-11-25

Saturday dawned with three-quarters of an inch of fresh, new snow. After my coffee, I bundled up to take a walk to the dock and do some birding. At 28 degrees with a soft breeze, the day felt warmer than the week before. A blue, sunny sky stretched overhead as I set off, first noticing some bird tracks on my front stoop.

A light wind pushed at me while I noted the birds in a neighbor’s yard: Dark-eyed Juncos, House Finches, and a Blue Jay. The dulcet tones of Lick Run overpowered any bird song. The groundwater-fed stream was free-flowing and ultra clear. I love the look of the creek flowing under the railroad bridge… I swear I have a thousand shots of that sight alone!

I continued on my walk, ambling up the hill. To my left, the thick briars on the steep hillside was full of birds. I let some cars pass and sidled up the guardrail to take a sound recording with Merlin. Merlin recognized Carolina Wrens, Tufted Titmice, Northern Cardinals, and American Robins. Before I turned off the recording, a new call broke out, one I was not familiar with.

A high, sharp repeating cheep rung out and paused before starting over. Merlin claimed it was a Golden-Crowned Kinglet. It continued to call after I closed Merlin and started looking for the bird in the thicket. Near the top of a bush was a small, darting bird with a shock of yellow on its head. A bright dark eye flashed under a white stripe… the Kinglet! The bird was here and gone before I could raise my camera. Dejected, I continued on my walk to the dock.

The closer I approached the lake, the more quiet the brush became. I ended my checklist with 12 species, the typical bunch of feeder birds plus the Kinglet. Once in the dock’s parking lot, I appreciated the beauty of the frozen lake. From my spot, I could see all the way to the breast of the dam, complete with a white velvet carpet of snow.

Rabbit tracks crossed the path to the dock platform. At least two rabbits had been dashing back and forth in the new snow. One rabbit had ventured out on the ice, crossing from the peninsula to the shore once. I had heard the ice was almost 3 inches thick at the Hunter Run Cut, but I wasn’t stupid enough to step out. Ice ought to be 4 inches or more thick before it’s acceptable to walk upon.

I dawdled a little longer, collecting two seed pods and a mushroom to draw back at home. I had seen the mushroom earlier this fall and wanted to explore its shape on paper. One of the seed pods was from the sycamore tree near the shore. I suspect a rushing squirrel broke the brittle tip of the branch.

As a cloud floated across the sun, I turned for home. The walk back to the house was slow- I stopped a few times to take more Merlin recordings. I strained to listen for the Kinglet back along the hillside, but I didn’t catch a single note or feather. Despite my disappointment, I did feel pleased at heart- I started off the new year with a new bird on my life list!

Recounting the Christmas Bird Count

On December 29th, I participated in my first Audubon Christmas Bird Count. Armed with my binoculars and camera, I loaded up in my friend’s Subaru. Four of us set off into the morning mists to cruise through a variety of habitat to find as many species as we could. We had no goals- our only expectation was to explore our corner of the circle and hope for species diversity.

At our first pull-off, a huge flock of thrush-sized birds flew overhead. At first, we thought they were European Starlings, but they didn’t seem quite right. Their flight calls were too cheerful to be the omnipresent nuisances. A long Merlin recording determined them to be American Robins. Throughout the morning we sighted one large flock after another. The Robins were taking advantage of the warm, rainy weather to hunt for earthworms.

In a small development, we crept towards a small group of vultures sunning on a tree branch. At first, we thought they were Turkey Vultures. As our position was okay, we snapped some pictures and realized the birds were Black Vultures. While my photograph is poor, I could see their white primaries spread for the sun. Their behavior was a little ironic- at this point in the day, the mists hung heavy over the fields… a great day for a goth bird!

As our morning wore on, we noted plenty of “standard” winter feeder birds. At almost every stop a Carolina Wren or Northern Cardinal would call out. While we didn’t always see them- there were plenty of Paridae. Black-Capped Chickadees and Tufted Titmice often flock together in the winter. Tufted Titmice are my favorite feeder bird, and I took on the role of counting them at our stops.

A continual delight was the melody of White-Throated Sparrows. Too small and fast for my camera, they danced around the shrubs of every stop. For such a small bird, their voices are loud and carried wherever they went. At one stop, they were the only birds we could hear over an agitated Northern Cardinal. I hadn’t paid much attention to White-Throated Sparrows before, but now they are on my radar for the future.

During an unrewarding trip up a wooded lane, a medium-sized brown bird popped out on a branch near my window. From the back, and through fogged glasses, it looked like a very fat wren. After wiping my glasses and picking up my camera, the bird turned and revealed itself to be a Hermit Thrush. This was my first one- and I was able to snap a half-decent shot!

As our day waned, we finally traded in the forests for edge habitat. Overgrown, mixed hedgerows rose high over the car as we sidled down a muddy country lane. A few winter feeder birds popped over us, and as we were turning we noticed a flash of blue further away. Hopping out, all four of us trained our binoculars on a flurry of activity on a berry bush- Eastern Bluebirds! On a high, we headed to the last part of our route.

Construction blocked the usual route, so a quick detour got us back on track. We spotted another Red-Tailed Hawk and an American Kestrel surveying roadways for prey. The area we were birding was close to I-99, making it hard to hear birds over the roar of the road. A few more American Robins added to the list, and we closed up shop, heading back to our meeting place to disband.

Our day was five and a half hours of pure birding- starting at 7:15am and ending at 12:45pm. On this trip, I was able to add to my life list and learn new camera tricks. Already I can say this trip was the highlight of my long holiday vacation!

My Favorite Place: Rattlesnake Rock

When I was a little girl, my family often took day trips to Wellsboro, Pennsylvania. In truth, “day trip” is a misnomer- any time my Dad turned the family van left out of Avis, we started a pilgrimage. Dedicated worshipers we were, visiting the same places year after year. Pictures, picnics, and family memories dot the mountains around Rt. 44 and Rt. 414.

The forests in the High Allegheny Plateau are gorgeous, and almost wild. Now, there is little in the way of industrial improvement, and the remnants of an agrarian past lie fallow. A handful of homes tucked between the small towns, and the woods are full of hunting camps. Hiking trails, fishing holes, and canoe launches are everywhere. The Pine Creek area is an outdoorsman’s dream.

Between Cedar Run and Blackwell is my most favorite place in the world, Rattlesnake Rock. Tucked into a bend of Pine Creek, the rock juts out over the water, offering a beautiful 180 degree view. A short spur trail off the Pine Creek Rail Trail connects the Rattlesnake Rock Access Area and the rock.

As a child, my parents would pack us snacks to have while sitting on the rock, dangling our feet over the edge. In all my life, I have never seen a snake at Rattlesnake Rock, but I have seen evidence of other wildlife. Once, while visiting in the winter, we found an otter slide down the hillside and into the water. Another time, a shift in the rocks revealed an owl’s nest full of feathers and pellets.

In Philip Tome’s Thirty Years a Hunter, he shares a brief interlude at Rattlesnake Rock. He claims that the location was a stopover for traveling Native Americans. The high rock over the water would make a safe vantage point, being able to see upriver and downriver. He camped there overnight and moved on. The story led me to search for his fire ring- even though I was visiting in the early 2000s, almost 200 years after!

Beauty and history aside, Rattlesnake Rock is a geological curiosity. A recent study from Mansfield University claims that Rattlesnake Rock originates elsewhere. Research shows that Rattlesnake Rock is not in aligned with nearby bedrock. This suggests translocation of a block rather than deposition of sediments. The authors believe this happened during the formation of the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon… making Rattlesnake Rock a periglacial feature!

In college, I would drive to Rattlesnake Rock to retreat from the world. During periods of high stress or anxiety, I would leave a note for my friends and take off to unplug from the world. With the water swirling below me, and the sounds of bikers silenced by the thick trees, I could relax. Sometimes, I would take a book and bask in the sun while reading, and once, I took a nap. I have never felt alone at Rattlesnake Rock- instead, I felt immersed in the wild world and at peace.

For the twenty years I have been visiting, I have changed, and so has Rattlesnake Rock. More flora has crept in, and the rock worn smooth from many exploring feet. Parts of the rock have sloughed off into Pine Creek, and the water fluctuates every season. Yet, the heart of the place is the same- wild and wonderful.

Works Cited

Murphy, K. (2022). EVALUATING THE ATTITUDE OF RATTLESNAKE ROCK FROM THE PINE CREEK GORGE, LYCOMING COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA. Confex.com; GSA. https://gsa.confex.com/gsa/2022NE/webprogram/Paper374904.html

Tome, P. (1928). Pioneer Life; Or, Thirty Years a Hunter. Being Scenes and Adventures in the Life of Philip Tome.

Picnicking at Penn-Roosevelt State Park

The turn off Old Rt. 322 onto Crowfield Road is innocuous. The road passes under the bridges and takes a sharp left, headed towards a small cleft in the valley. Cruising in my Jeep Patriot that day, the abrupt change from pavement to gravel woke my partner up from his nap. The 6-mile road up valley was a beautiful drive- one I had never seen before.

Up the mountain we climbed, passing many tidy hunting camps. The road reminded me of the way to my great-grandfather’s hunting camp. I mused on childhood memories while driving, and partner fell back asleep. Far too soon, we reached the rear entrance of Penn-Roosevelt State Park.

From behind, there are only signs to signal the entrance to the Park. The road splits off in two directions: a hard left turn over a bridge, or a gentler right turn downhill. First, we took the right-hand road, passing by the impoundment lake, picnic area, and CCC ruins. I turned around in a pull-off and headed back up to explore the other side- the tenting area.

We decided to picnic in the tenting area, as it was close to the vault toilets and a bearproof trash can. A few families were camping- the Park felt empty in comparison to Bald Eagle State Park. Yet, there was a subtle bustle and we had our meal and played card games in the quiet of the woods.

After a while, we hiked over to the impoundment lake, the largest remnant of the CCC camp which was here in the 1930s. S-62-PA, otherwise known as “Stone Creek Kettle” or “Penn-Roosevelt,” was 1 of 12 Black CCC camps in PA. Despite legislation calling for integrated facilities, CCC camps were segregated. Many, like Penn-Roosevelt, were purposefully placed in remote areas.

When the CCC workers arrived, there were no improvements. They had to build their lodgings themselves, camping in old Army tents. Throughout the CCC era, the men helped fight forest fires and aid in rescue during floods. Their work made a lasting impact on the area; some of the facilities they built are standing today.

The facilities here are simple, but beautiful. The impoundment lake has started to silt in, with the forest taking over. In the 1960s, the DCNR covered the original dam and created the small side spillway visible today. The restored hearth of the original recreation building is close by the day-use area. Other ruins were nearby, but we didn’t have the chance to explore them.

While ambling through the Park, I thought a lot about the geomorphology of the area. Stone Creek Kettle is not an actual kettle; a type of depression formed at the edge of glaciers. After some research, I couldn’t find any explanation for the name. DCNR recommended to contact Mr. Fagley, retired Greenwood Furnace State Park educator. He shared with me that in early America, folk considered any bowl-like feature a kettle. Mr. Fagley also mentioned in his e-mail that “neither the First nor Second Geological surveys of PA, both conducted in the 19th century, don’t mention the “Stone Creek Kettle” by this name, though do briefly mention the area and noted its geologic structure.”

After hiking around, we packed up for the day and headed back out Crowfield Road. Six miles later, we were on Old Rt. 322, headed for home. I wondered what the men of S-62 would have thought about the changes… what may have taken them hours or days to hike into the woods cost us an hour and a few dollars in gas.

Works Cited

DCNR. (2018, February 21). Recognizing the Conservation Work of Black CCC Companies in PA. Good Natured; Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources. https://www.dcnr.pa.gov/GoodNatured/pages/Article.aspx?post=33

DCNR. (2019). Penn-Roosevelt State Park. Pennsylvania Department of Conservation & Natural Resources. https://www.dcnr.pa.gov/StateParks/FindAPark/Penn-RooseveltStatePark/Pages/default.aspx

Fagley, P. (2024, September 11). Stone Creek Kettle Question [E-Mail to Autumn Dannay].

McNeil, A. (2022). Moving Forward Initiative: The African American Experience in the Civilian Conservation Corps. The Corps Network. https://corpsnetwork.org/moving-forward-initiative-the-african-american-experience-in-the-civilian-conservation-corps/#:~:text=To%20reduce%20community%20outcry%2C%20many

Pennsylvania CCC Online Archive. (n.d.). Camp Information for S-62-PA. Pennsylvania CCC Online Archive. Retrieved September 20, 2024, from https://www.iframeapps.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/ccc/Camp.aspx?ID=88

Early Fall at Soaring Eagle Wetland

The last full week of September had been misty, each morning starting with light rain and fog. That Thursday was no different, but as I was driving down Rt. 150, the fog started to rise. I continued my journey as the land to my left transitioned from parklands to towns, then to wetlands. I was heading to Soaring Eagle Wetland in Julian, a place long on my list to explore.

The parking lot was half-full with construction equipment, but I paid it no mind. I parked near the ADA parking and hopped out to survey the area. Goldenrod blanketed the lowlands around me, humming with life. A high chorus of insects almost drowned the birdsong, but I could catch the sound of sparrows and finches.

A paved pathway led to a boardwalk, dotted with grasshoppers. A big one caught my eye, and I managed to take a picture before it flung into the grasses. Birdsong grew louder closer to the small trees, dominated by the chips of swamp sparrows. I passed a cute bench and made it to the accessible fishing area.

Bald Eagle Creek rushed by the pier, and I took a break on the bench. Later, I explored down to the water using the accessible ramp, and continued to a worn trail to the water’s edge. I stepped out, and enjoyed the cool flow of water over my boots. Not wanting to disturb a fisherman, I headed back to the trail.

Other trails branched off from the paved section. One path looked new, level and graveled alongside Bald Eagle Creek. A grassy path, named “Long Trail” headed out into the goldenrod. If I had more time, I would have explored Long Trail. I was a little put off as the brochure map was not detailed, not listing a length or difficulty. I can imagine it is an easy trail, but as I was alone with poor cell reception, I was hesitant to depart from my plan.

Heading back to my car, I saw many nesting boxes of all shapes and sizes. Bluebird boxes were close to the paved trail, and larger owl boxes were high in the trees. One of the owl boxes had been in recent use, with sticks and grasses poking out in the seams.

Soaring Eagle Wetlands has a second area- the Galen & Nancy Dreibelbis Birding Area. I went there next, hoping to complete a checklist. I followed a small gravel trail to an accessible viewing pier. A small plaque shared that the platform was a 2022 Eagle Scout project. Immediately below me were many frogs, moving too fast for me to photograph.

While at the platform, I took a sound recording with Merlin. The app heard blue jays, American goldfinches, and grey catbirds. The app struggled to identify birds over the sounds of Rt. 150 and insects. With my binoculars, I spotted some wood ducks landing in the water. They were definitely too far away for Merlin to catch their oo-eek calls.

Before leaving, I checked out the blind by the accessible parking. Yet another beautiful view out of its window- one I would have loved to admire for much longer! Another path branched off from an accessible ramp.

On my drive home, the clouds descended again, and the rain began again. While I was leaving Soaring Eagle Wetland behind, I already knew I would return. Next time I know to plan for more bug spray and time to walk the trails.